Order of Play

Why do we eat as we do in this country, as regards the order in which we serve dishes? In short, why start savoury and end sweet? And why do we, where we can, have a light first course, heavier main, then finish with cheese or pudding, the order of those two last elements being the subject of much disagreement and not a little snobbery.

Thoughts on this were prompted the other day in a conversation with my father that somehow brought to mind the story of an arctic explorer (a real one, not one of the stuntmen self-publicists called such by the media) whose cabin stock of tins was soaked, removing all the labels. He decided thenceforth to use whatever was in the two opened for his evening meal combined and heated together, leading to delights like minced steak and custard. In the end, some would argue, it all gets mixed up in our innards.

The French on the cheese before pud theme argue that it is somehow natural to finish on something sweet. There is no logic to that. And why then allow sweeter starters like melon, or indeed anything with good fresh tomatoes at its heart? What about the logic of all those fruit and savoury mixes we British love or loved (and about which I would dearly love to write a book - notes well on already), from Cumberland Hackin to Hindle Wakes?

Centuries ago we, or rather the wealthy in this country, used to eat banquets with a host of dishes served at once, puddings, pies, meats and salads. We are not wealthy, but have of late enjoyed many meals served like a mezze, though that for us is limited to savoury dishes. Some ingredients don't match one another when combined, but can provide a complement or contrast used separately. It also offers a safe route for the host of a party of the less formal type, putting half a dozen things on the table so that at least one or two will appeal to each guest, whereas one grand dish risks being a pet hate for someone, spoiling their evening and yours. And there is a feeling of generosity about putting half a dozen platters on the table of course.